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Tour 2 : Slow Trains to Kyoto

HIGHLIGHTS

Steam locomotive to the old castle town of Tsuwano · Hiroshima Peace Park · Train travel along the beautiful Japan Sea Coast passing through National Parks · The Izumo Grand Shrine · Country and seaside walks on the ‘quiet side' of Japan · Amanohashidate, the ‘Bridge to Heaven' (one of Japan's classic landscapes · Hiking through beech forests on Mount Daisen · World Heritage listed Iwami Ginzan silver mine · Kinosaki and Tajima pottery · Kyoto · Luxury ryokan · Excellent Japanese food · Fine onsen - natural hot spring baths

Click here for Tour Map

Guide - Bob Heffill or other local (English-speaking) Hike Japan guide

Bob first visited Japan in 1973. After graduating from the University of London School of Oriental and African Studies in 1980, he worked in Japan as an English teacher in state schools for three years. He subsequently spent over twenty years working as a professional Japanese translator and interpreter. Bob established Hike Japan in 2003 after completing his Mountain Leader training course. He now runs Hike Japan - a company specializing in small group walking adventures - together with a network of expert local guides.

 

Style of tour
English-speaking local leader.
Accommodation in traditional ryokan, modern ryokan, hotels.

Dates
Saturday 5 June – Thursday 17 June 2010
(single rooms only normally available in hotels)

Price for 2010
445,000 yen
Single supplement 35,000 yen

Duration
12 days/nights

Hiking days
Gentle walks on several days and one moderate mountain hike

Grade
Gentle/Moderate

Group size
Maximum: 10 Clients Minimum: 5 Client

Includes:
All domestic transport, accommodation, meals, guides, entrance and activity fees

Does not include:
International Flights, drinks with meals

 

Booking

*www.hikejapan.com

info@hikejapan.com

*Phone:

Japan tel/fax: (+)81 (0)3 5226 1169
Japan: (+81) (0)80 3445 1130 (mob)

Hike Japan
11-1-408 Ichiban-cho Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo 102-0082

4 TH Floor Haines House
21 John Street
London WC1N 2BP

 

INTRODUCTION

Tokyo · Hiroshima · Yamaguchi · Tsuwano · Arifuku Onsen · Matsue · Izumo · Mount Daisen · Kinosaki · Amanohashidate · Kyoto

The Japan Sea Coast of Western Honshu, the main island, is exceptionally beautiful. Rarely visited by westerners, it lies to the north of the mountains that separate this region from the big cities along the shinkansen bullet train line which connects Osaka, Kobe, Himeji, Okayama, Hiroshima, and Yamaguchi. There are a couple of small cities along the north coast, Tottori and Matsue, but the land is mainly devoted to farming. The coastline, with white beaches and rocky headlands, is dotted with small fishing villages. Connecting these villages is a series of railway lines that we use as we make our way slowly from Yamaguchi to Kyoto.

After departing from Tokyo, our first overnight stop is in Hiroshima. The following day there is a two hour journey on a steam locomotive line from Yamaguchi to the historically important castle town of Tsuwano. At this time of year the irises will be in bloom in the crystal clear canals, filled with carp, which line the streets. The old walls and buildings of Tsuwano have gained it recognition as being one of Japan's many ‘mini-Kyoto'. The Tsuwano Documentary Photography Gallery here has works by Shisei Kuwabara shot in Korea, Vietnam, and Minamata (which suffered terrible mercury pollution – see http://kuwabarashisei.com/). Here, and throughout the trip, there will be wonderful natural hot spring baths.

From Tsuwano we travel deeper into Shimane Prefecture as we head for Arifuku Onsen. We will enjoy the hospitality of a very special ryokan here for two nights. The local beaches and countryside here can be explored on foot. From Arifuku we will visit the Iwami Ginzan silver mine, a World Heritage listed site.

We now travel along the coast to Matsue beside Lake Shinji, where the writer and Japanophile Lafcadio Hearn lived for a while. In his book Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan, Lafcadio Hearn wrote

Looking eastward from the great bridge over those sharply beautiful mountains, green and blue, which tooth the horizon, I see a glorious spectre towering to the sky. Its base is effaced by far mists: out of the air the thing would seem to have shaped itself—a phantom cone, diaphanously grey below, vaporously white above, with a dream of perpetual snow—the mighty mountain of Daisen.

From Matsue we will visit the Izumo Grand Shrine, one of the most important Shinto shrines in Japan. The tour will feature gourmet food. The fresh seafood in Matsue is particularly good.

Again using Matsue as a base, we will hike on Mount Daisen. In June, the beech forests will be fresh green, and we may be lucky and get a clear day with views from the summit all the way along the Japan Sea Coast.

We head on slowly east on local railway lines to the onsen town of Kinosaki. Some ‘in-the-know' think that Kinosaki has the best natural hot springs in Japan! We stay the night in a luxurious ryokan here. There will be the chance to explore the town, and we will visit the local Tajima pottery kiln and studio - founded by the Tsuyoshi Yamane – where you can try your hand at making a tea cup or plate.

From Kinosaki we will explore the Tango Peninsula and Amanohashidate, literally the ‘Bridge to Heaven'. A spit of land about two miles long and with 7000 or so pine trees, this is one the three classic scenes in Japan. The other two are the pine-clad islands of Matsushima, and Itsukushima near Hiroshima.

From Amanohashidate you will travel on the last leg of your Slow Trains to Kyoto journey to the old capital itself. There are two nights here. The first in one of Kyoto's best traditional inns, one that Hike Japan has had a good relationship with for many years. We will explore the city, or you can enjoy free time to shop and sightsee.

he tour is designed for those who want to get well off the beaten track and see a beautiful part of Japan, but who aren't keen on more serious mountain hiking. This one avoids the overcrowded traps which other tours so often end up in. The pace of the tour is unhurried as we stay in one place for more than one night on several occasions – and we use some very elegant traditional inns. Not only is the accommodation first class, the food, as on all Hike Japan tours, will be outstanding. Slow trains and gentle walking are a two great ways to see Japan. This new tour is highly recommended.

 

DAY-BY-DAY ITINERAY

DAY 1 SATURDAY MEET CENTRAL TOKYO AND TRAIN TO HIROSHIMA

Although the tour is all about ‘slow trains', we start our journey on one of the fastest, the shinkansen bullet train. Meet in central Tokyo and travel to Hiroshima. After lunch we will visit the Atomic Dome and Peace Park or, if you've seen it already, there are other interesting sites to visit in Hiroshima, including the Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art and the Itsukushima Shrine.

Overnight Japanese-style city centre hotel

DAY 2 SUNDAY STEAM LOCOMOTIVE TO TSUWANO VIA YAMAGUCHI

After breakfast we will continue west with a short bullet train ride to Yamaguchi. From there we transfer to the steam locomotive ‘Yamaguchi' for a 63km journey, which will take about two hours, to Tsuwano. Steam trains were scrapped along with modernisation in the mid-1960's in Japan, but fans with local government support saved this line which recommenced operation in 1979. The line travels through countryside and narrow gorges before arriving in Tsuwano.

There will be time to have a stroll around town before hot spring baths and dinner.

Overnight ryokan

DAY 3 MONDAY SIGHTSEEING AND WALKS AROUND TSUWANO

Surrounded by hills and overlooked by the ruins of a medieval castle, Tsuwano, with walled streets reminiscent of Kyoto, is an ideal town to stroll or cycle around. Near the castle, first constructed in 1295 and used until the Meiji Restoration, is Taikodani Jinja, the largest Inari Shrine to the fox god of rice in Japan. It has over a thousand bright red torii gates which form a tunnel. Other important sites in town include the Tsuwano Documentary Photography Gallery with photos by Shisei Kuwabata, the Mori Ogai Memorial Museum and former residence, and the former residence of Nishi Amane who played an important part in the Meiji Restoration government. There is plenty to fill the day with in Tsuwano, whatever your interests!

Overnight ryokan

DAY 4 TUESDAY TRAVEL TO ARIFUKU ONSEN AND LOCAL WALK

This morning we will travel by train from Tsuwano on to Hamada on the Japan Sea coast, from where we will transfer to our lovely ryokan at Arifuku Onsen. After lunch we will enjoy a walk through lush local countryside to the sea, and possibly a dip, followed by a relaxing soak in the ryokan's excellent baths, and then a fine dinner.

Overnight ryokan

DAY 5 WEDNESDAY VISIT IWAMI GINZAN MINE IN OMORI CHO

After a leisurely breakfast we will spend the day visiting the Omori-cho area and the Iwami Ginzan silver mine. This operated for over four hundred years as Japan's most important silver mine. It ranked alongside Potosi in Bolivia as one of the world's great silver mines. Annual production in the early 17 th century was 38 tons. Known to Europeans in the mid-sixteenth century, silver from the mine contributed to trade, and to local lords and the shogunate maintaining their military power in the Edo Period.

Overnight ryokan

DAY 6 THURSDAY TRAIN TO MATSUE

Our train journey continues along the coast today to the small city of Matsue. After lunch we will visit the Shimane Prefectural Art Museum, which celebrated its 10 th anniversary in 2009. Located on the shores of Lake Shinji, the museum has collections of Japanese and Western art, sculpture, pottery, and photographs.

Overnight hotel

DAY 7 FRIDAY VISIT IZUMO GRAND SHRINE

Today we will take a slow, local train to the Grand Shrine at Izumo. Along with the Kumano and Ise Grand Shrines, this ranks as one of the country's most important shrines. Considered one of the oldest in Japan, myth has it that the sun goddess Amanoterasu no Omikami, ancestor of the imperial family, dedicated Izumo Taisha to the god Okuninushi-no-mikoto , the Shinto deity of marriage. We'll enjoy some delicious noodles before returning to Matsue later in the afternoon, when you will have some free time to explore.

Dinner at a family-run restaurant specializing in local seafood.

Overnight hotel

DAY 8 SATURDAY DAY HIKE ON MOUNT DAISEN

The highest mountain in west Honshu, Mount Daisen is an extinct volcano. Its flanks are cloaked in beech forests which will be a brilliant green in June, and if its clear there will be great views from the top of the Japan Sea Coast. Daisen is an important pilgrimage site. There are shrines and temples on the lower slopes amongst the trees.

On the hike you will need trainers, approach shoes, or light hiking boots. A day sack with drinks/light lunch, camera, and waterproofs etc. is sufficient for the up and down route. Return to Matsue in the late afternoon.

Overnight hotel

DAY 9 SUNDAY TRAIN TO KINOSAKI ONSEN

We will catch an early morning train from Matsue to the small town of Kinosaki in Hyogo Prefecture, travelling through the Sanin National Park, a pretty stretch of coastline offering good views from the train window. We make local connections en route.

After lunch in the lovely town of Kinosaki, we will take a short walk over the river bridge to the nearby Tajima pottery where you can try your hand at creating a masterpiece.

We stay at the best ryokan in town. We will enjoy natural hot spring tubs there, or walk down the road to the excellent public hot spring baths. Or maybe both - when in Rome … before a sumptuous dinner.

Overnight ryokan

DAY 10 MONDAY EXPLORE THE TANGO PENINSULA

Today we will travel around the lovely Tango Peninsula. The long sand spit with pine stands, Amanohashidate, is one of the three most famous scenic spots in Japan. Indeed, the Tango Peninsula has to be one of the most attractive rural areas in Japan, with its small sandy beaches and coves, and inland small farming villages. We'll visit a small brewery in a fishing village on the way and sample some of the local sake!

Overnight Kinosaki ryokan

DAY 11 TUESDAY TRAIN TO KYOTO

After checking into our comfortable ryokan, we'll stroll over to the Nijo Castle. Not far from the Kyoto Imperial Palace, but built later - between 1601-26 - Nijo was a symbol of shogunate power whilst the shogun was based in Edo, present-day Tokyo.

In the evening we'll enjoy a true Kyoto banquet at our traditional lodgings. Overnight ryokan

DAY 12 WEDNESDAY KYOTO. AFTERNOON SIGHTSEEING.

It would take years to see a fraction of Kyoto's wonders. However, in the morning there will be free time to shop. Nishikikoji market is a great place to get an idea of the incredible diversity of food in Japan, and to see related businesses such as the old Aritsugu knife and utensil shop. Shopping culture in Japan, like everything else, been taken to extraordinary heights. In the afternoon we will walk from Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavilion, along Philosophers walk to Nanzenji Temple. The latter is the head temple of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism in Japan. In the early evening we will stroll through Miyagawa and Gion, traditional geisha quarters. Farewell dinner and reading of any haiku poems written on the tour!

Overnight Kyoto city centre hotel.

DAY 13 THURSDAY KYOTO

Tour ends after breakfast. Why not spend a tow or three days on your own after the tour exploring Kyoto or getting a bus to one of the nearby villages such as Ohara or Kurama? Or perhaps visit the Miho Museum in Shigaraki. Or return to the bright lights of Tokyo?

We can help book your accommodation - how about self-catering in a traditional, lovingly restored town house, or machiya, in Kyoto city centre for a couple of days? Or onward travel to other destinations.

 

 

 

 

TRIP NOTES

Equipment & Clothing

On receiving your booking, we send you a dossier which contains a suggested gear and clothing list. Contact us if you have any questions at all. We will be pleased to offer advice.

Accommodation

KYOTO: Ryokan/Comfortable, city centre hotel. HIROSHIMA: Modern Japanese ryokan-style hotel TSUWANO, ARIFUKU, KINOSAKI: Traditional Japanese ryokan. MATSUE: Hotel.

Please note that single rooms are normally only available in hotels – where a single room supplement will apply.

Meal Plan

All meals are provided.

Important Notes

Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but we cannot make absolute guarantees! Changes to the itinerary will normally be made to introduce an improvement. Weather conditions, road and transport conditions, and the health of walkers can all contribute to changes. The guide will ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy-going nature is an asset!

 


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