Highlights

Exploring the Kii mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and walking part of the old pilgrimage route to the great Kumano shrines · Staying in Buddhist temples on Mount Koya and in Nachi · Accommodation in old hot spring villages · Staying in lovely old ryokan in the mountain top village of Yoshino and in Kyoto · Exploring the old capitals of Asuka and Nara · A country walk along the Yamanobe-no-michi · Kyoto highlights · Meeting friends and locals along the way.

Guide – Bob Heffill

Bob first visited Japan in 1973. After graduating from the University of London School of Oriental and African Studies in 1980, he worked in Japan as an English teacher in state schools for three years. He subsequently spent over twenty years working as a professional Japanese translator and interpreter. Bob established Hike Japan in 2003 after completing his Mountain Leader training course. He now runs Hike Japan - a company specializing in small group walking adventures - together with a network of expert local guides.

Style of tour
Japanese-speaking British leader – Accommodation in family-run minshuku , traditional ryokan, hotels, temples .

Dates
1 Sunday 2 May – Sunday 16 May 2010
2 Sunday 17 October – Sunday 31 October 2010

Price for 2010
400,000 yen
Single supplement 30,000 yen

Duration
14 days

Hiking days
6 days

Grade
Moderate/Vigorous

Group size
Maximum: 8 Clients Minimum: 5 Client

Includes:
All domestic transport, accommodation, meals, guides, entrance and activity fees

Does not include:
International Flights, drinks with meals

Booking

www.hikejapan.com

info@hikejapan.com

Phone:

Japan tel/fax: (+)81 (0)3 5226 1169
Japan: (+81) (0)80 3445 1130 (mob)

Hike Japan
11-1-408 Ichiban-cho Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo 102-0082

4 TH Floor Haines House
21 John Street
London WC1N 2BP

INTRODUCTION

Osaka · Mount Koya · Ryujin Onsen · Nakaheji to the Three Grand Kumano Shrines · Yoshino · Asuka · Nara · Kyoto

Although less dramatic than the Japan Alps, the forested mountains of the Kii Peninsula, south of Nara, have for centuries been regarded as sacred.

After meeting and relaxing on your first night in Osaka, your second night in Japan is at an elegant temple situated on Mount Koya, the home of Shingon (Pure Word) Buddhism. The pilgrimage routes to the three great Kumano Shrines – Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Hayatama Taisha were popularised during and after the Heian Period (794-1185), when the imperial family and nobility began to seek salvation in sangaku shinko (a belief in the supernatural power of mountains), rather than through common religious practices. Emperor Gotoba (1180-1239) made no less than thirty pilgrimages to Kumano, recording his thoughts and feelings in the Kumano poems. These precious documents are now in the Yomei Storehouse archives in Kyoto.

Hot springs are abundant, and some of the oldest onsen in Japan are located in the Kii Peninsula. You will follow the southernmost part of the old Nakaheji pilgrimage route for about 65 kilometres staying at family run inns and temples along the way. The path is often paved with flagstone steps and leads through forests of Japanese cedar. Walking in the quiet solitude it is easy to imagine the days, centuries ago, when nobles followed these paths through the mountains.

After a four day trek along the Nakaheji Pilgrimage route, you will travel north, through the mountains, to the mountain-top village of Yoshino. There we stay in a traditional ryokan The ryokan is conveniently located for exploring Yoshino, home to the Kinpusenji Temple and its great Zaodo Hall. Kinpusenji Temple is the head temple of the shugendo sect of mountain priests.

We then travel out of the mountains, via the ancient capitals of Asuka and Nara, to Kyoto. From Asuka we will walk through countryside along an historic route known as the Yamanobe no michi. In Nara and Kyoto you will experience a more cosmopolitan side of Japan. Sightseeing will include Nara Park and other sites in this pleasant city. We will then explore Kyoto. Sites visited include the Nijo Castle and one or two temples with traditional gardens. From Kyoto you will visit the ultramodern Miho Museum in Shigaraki. There will be time for shopping in Kyoto.

On this, as on every Hike Japan tour, excellent food and carefully chosen accommodation come as standard.

DAY BY DAY ITINERARY

DAY 1 SUNDAY MEET OSAKA

Arrive Osaka and transfer to Osaka city centre hotel.

DAY 2 MONDAY TRANSFER TO MOUNT KOYA

Transfer to Mount Koya Monastery. Overnight in the peaceful Yochiin temple on Mount Koya.

DAY 3 TUESDAY SIGHTSEEING MOUNT KOYA AND DRIVE TO RYUJIN ONSEN.

During the morning you will have a leisurely guided walk to the most interesting sites on Mount Koya, including Okunoin, where Kukai (later named Kobo Daishi) is enshrined. The walk, through tall cypress trees, passes several hundred thousand tombstones, monuments to emperors, shoguns and samurai, landlords and poets.

In the afternoon you will drive south from Mount Koya, along the Koya-Ryujin Skyline, to a sumptuous old ryokan (family inn) in Ryujin Onsen. The Kamigoten ryokan was declared a ‘Tangible cultural property' (similar to a Grade 1 listed building) in 1999. Dark polished wooden floors, large white cedar baths, and delicious seasonal delicacies will be served for dinner. Overnight at the Kamigoten ryokan.

DAY 4 WEDNESDAY WALK TO CHIKATSUYU (10 miles walking: approximately 7 hours).

Today you will start your 4-day walk along the old Nakaheji pilgrimage path to Kumano. From the start at Takijiri Oji, the path climbs steeply up to the ridge-top village of Takahara. The Nakaheji has been established as one of Japan's National Historic Roads. The paths are clearly defined, and flagstones have been laid in some places to make the climbs easier. You will average about 10 miles a day. Although rarely seen these days, there are small bears in the Kumano mountains and, more commonly, deer and wild boar. Wayside shrines encourage regular rest stops. The small shrine at Chikatsuyu marks the end of the first day of the walk. The night is spent in a family-run ryokan in Yunomine.

DAY 5 THURSDAY WALK TO KUMANO HONGU AND YUNOMINE HOTSPRING (6 miles: 4 hours)

We will pick up the path in the hills above the Kumano Hongu Shrine and walk via Hongu to Yunomine, one of the oldest natural hot spring onsen villages in Japan. There is an increasing sense of solitude and purpose as you progress towards the three great shrines of Kumano, passing small jizo statues on the way. Nobles would rest at points called oji, to refresh themselves and compose poems. You can stamp a booklet as a souvenir of your walk at each oji. Their poetry is engraved on stone monuments sited along the path.

At the heart of these sacred mountains, Kumano was said to be the entrance to the land of Yomi, the ‘other world' to where spirits travelled in Japanese mythology. The classic style of architecture of the Kumano Hongu Shrine blends perfectly with the surrounding mountains and forests. The shrine uses a mythological three-legged raven symbol, representing the Hongu, Nachi, and Hayatama shrines – the same motif as the one used by the Japan Football Association. The ryokan at Yunomine is comfortable, with an outdoor hot tub fed by local hot springs. Evening soaks under the stars are recommended for tired limbs, as are morning dips before breakfast. Your breakfast eggs might well be boiled in the boiling, sulphurous waters at the spring in the centre of the village. Overnight ryokan.

DAY 6 FRIDAY WALK TO KOGUCHI (9 miles: 6 hours)

Today you will continue the walk with a long, gentle climb over the Kogumotori Pass (470m/1,542ft), to Koguchi. Overnight spa resort lodge.

DAY 7 SATURDAY WALK TO KUMANO NACHI TAISHA. (10 miles: 6 hours)

The final 10 miles of your walk along the Nakahechi footpath is a long morning climb over the Ogumotori Echizen Pass (870m/2,854ft), followed by a descent to the Nachi Shrine. The shrine and temple complex overlooks the Nachi-no-taki Waterfall, the highest in Japan (133m/436ft). You will stay at the Sonshoin Temple, an appropriate resting place after your long walk. The lodging has a pretty Japanese garden, and a beautiful view of the waterfall and surrounding forest. If you can manage to get up at 5.30 a.m. you can take part in morning sutra readings. Overnight temple accommodation in Nachi.

DAY 8 SUNDAY DRIVE TO YOSHINO

Your journey turns northward today with a drive to the lovely hilltop village of Yoshinoyama. You will stay in a traditional ryokan inn with natural hot spring outdoor tubs. Overnight ryokan.

DAY 9 MONDAY WALK YOSHINOYAMA. DRIVE TO ASUKA

The Zaodo Hall lies at the heart of Yoshino in Kimpusenji, the head temple of the shugendo sect of mountain priests. Yoshino has played a very important role in Japanese history – it was the base for the Southern Court when it split from the Imperial Court in Kyoto. There will be time to explore the village and then have lunch on local arrowroot noodles before driving to Asuka in the afternoon. Overnight at a family-run bed & breakfast.

DAY 10 TUESDAY ASUKA AND WALK THE YAMANOBE NO MICHI

Asuka was the first capital of a consolidated Japanese state known as Yamato. Not much remains – mostly large imperial tumuli (one chamber has been excavated but is in danger of deteriorating so is closed. You will be able to see a replica and foundations. Asuka is a pleasant area to cycle and walk around. We will have coffee at a craft workshop - the Asuka Aizome Senshokukan - run by an ex-NHK (Japan Broadcasting Corporation) broadcaster who has an impressive collection of indigo-dyed fabrics and over 10,000 traditional pottery bells.

The Yamanobe No Michi (literally ‘path beside the mountains') is a designated historical route. A 4-hour, 13 km stroll through countryside with persimmon and mandarin groves, the path winding around imperial tombs. You will stop for a noodle lunch en route. Arrive Nara late afternoon. Overnight Hotel in Nara.

DAY 11 WEDNESDAY SIGHTSEEING IN NARA

Today you will have a guided walk around Nara Park. Many of Japan's greatest cultural treasures are concentrated in and around Nara. Indeed, the city boasts eight UNESCO World Heritage sites. The Todaiji Temple, Nigastu-do and Sangatsu-do halls, Kasuga Shrine, Shinyakushi-ji Temple, Kofuku-ji Temple, Shosoin Treasure House, Isuien Garden, as well as the Nara National Museum and the Nara City Museum of Photography are all in or near Nara Park. The parkland is also home to a thousand or more free-roaming deer.Todaiji's Daibutsu-den is the largest wooden building in the world, and houses a 16 metre (52ft) tall bronze image of the cosmic Dainichi Buddha, containing 437 tonnes of bronze and 130kg of gold. Prior to being rebuilt three hundred years ago, the awesome structure was even bigger than it is today. There will be some free time to relax and look around Nara on your own. Overnight Hotel in Nara.

DAY 12 THURSDAY TRAIN TO KYOTO

From Nara we travel north to Kyoto. Imperial power was consolidated here after the court moved from Nara. Kyoto is such a special place that it would take years to see a fraction of its wonders. In the afternoon you will visit the Silver Pavilion and explore the colourful backstreets of the Higashiyama area. Overnight ryokan in Kyoto.

DAY 13 FRIDAY KYOTO AND MIHO MUSEUM. AFTERNOON FREE

In the morning you will visit the renowned modern Miho Museum in Shigaraki. Designed by I.M.Pei, the museum has been sculptured into the mountains, giving you a sense that you have entered a serene world where time stands still. The museum concept is as unique as the Guggenheim in Bilbao. Returning to Kyoto, there will be free time to browse and shop in the afternoon. There are several excellent department stores and interesting shops which you will be free to visit. Shopping culture in Japan has, like everything else they do, been taken to extraordinary heights. Overnight Kyoto city centre hotel.

DAY 14 SATURDAY KYOTO

It would take years to see a fraction of Kyoto's wonders. However, in the morning you will visit Nijo Castle. In the afternoon there will be free time to sightsee or shop. Nishikikoji market is a great place to get an idea of the incredible diversity of food in Japan, and to see related businesses such as the old Aritsugu knife and utensil shop. Shopping culture in Japan, like everything else, been taken to extraordinary heights. In the early evening we will stroll through Miyagawa and Gion, traditional geisha quarters. Farewell dinner an haiku poems written on the tour! Overnight Kyoto city centre hotel.

DAY 15 SUNDAY TOUR ENDS

On receiving your booking, we send you a dossier which contains a suggested gear and clothing list. Contact us if you have any questions at all. We will be pleased to offer advice.

TRIP NOTES

Equipment & Clothing

On receiving your booking, we send you a dossier which contains a suggested gear and clothing list. Contact us if you have any questions at all. We will be pleased to offer advice.

Accommodation

KYOTO , NARA , OSAKA : Comfortable, modern, downtown hotels. MOUNT KOYA: Temple. OTHER PLACES: Traditional Japanese inns (ryokan and minshuku).

Please note that single rooms are normally only available in hotels – where a single room supplement may apply.

Meal Plan

All meals are provided.

Important Notes

Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but we cannot make absolute guarantees! Changes to the itinerary will normally be made to introduce an improvement. Weather conditions, road and transport conditions, and the health of walkers can all contribute to changes. The guide will ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy-going nature is an asset!