INTRODUCTION
Osaka – Mount Koya – Yoshino – Odaigahara – Asuka – Nara – Ohara – Kyoto
Several of the Hike Japan tours begin and end in the Kansai, in the Nara/Kyoto area. There are good reasons for this; there is a greater concentration of culturally important sites here than anywhere else in the country, there is easy access to rural areas that retain some of their integrity and which have not been spoiled by modern development, the locals are friendly, the food is good, there is plenty of scope for easy walking, and the climate is milder than in the mountains and further north.
This tour features easier walks than most of the tours. From Osaka , we travel to Mount Koya , head monastery of the Shingon Pure Word Buddhist sect in Japan , a short train journey to the south. Mount Koya has an extraordinary cemetery (in the company of our guide, this walk will offer interesting glimpses into Japanese history) and is the centre of the esoteric Shingon (Pure Word) sect of Buddhism. After a peaceful night we will rise early and attend a short sutra reading. The temple we stay at has a small karesansui (rock garden). The main temple here, Kongobuji, has the largest dry rock garden in Japan . The fresh green foliage of the maple and other trees can be enjoyed in May.
From one famous site we travel by train to a village with an equally well-known name – Yoshino. The Kinpusenji temple in Yoshino is the head temple of the Shugendo Buddhist sect. With links to Tibetan Buddhism, the mountain monks belonging to this sect, known as gyoja , maintain high levels of personal discipline and are renowned for their hardiness. The village is perched on a ridge. A walk south takes you to some interesting sites on the approach to the Omine pilgrimage route, including the site of the warrior poet Saigyo's hut. Overnight is in a wonderful ryokan with a garden designed by tea master Sen no Rikyu. Yoshino is well-known for its delicious kuzu noodles, and you will enjoy a lunch which includes them.
Parts of this tour are common to the Imperial Pilgrimage Route , but after Yoshino we will visit the Odaigahara Plateau. At about 2,000m, this limestone upland is an area of special scientific interest. The area has some of the highest levels of rainfall in Japan (over 5 metres!), and is blessed with mixed forest and an abundance of wildlife. A few years ago, a typhoon destroyed a bridge which gave access from the east, so we will approach by road up from the west side and enjoy a walk around Odai without the stiff climb on foot! Weather permitting we will have a picnic. There are one or two natural hot springs in the area which means we can enjoy a bath after the hike.
Asuka is historically important as the site of the first capital of a unified Japanese state. The area is beautifully conserved and remains from the Asuka Period (538-710) include huge imperial tombs. The opening of the tombs, and the conservation work required, remain hotly debated issues in Japan . Newspaper articles on the subject regularly appear in the press. Frescos which had almost been destroyed by exposure to the atmosphere were recently exhibited at the local museum and a Hike Japan group was fortunate enough to see these before they were taken to the labs for a long time whilst they undergo restoration work. We enjoy a buckwheat soba lunch here, and do some indigo fabric dyeing.
The Yamanobe no michi is pleasant walking 4-hour walking route that starts at the Miwa Shrine north of Asuka and ends at Isonokami Jingu Shrine in the foothills near Tenri.
After a couple of nights in Nara , where we will visit, among other places, the great Todaiji Temple , we head for Kyoto . Our ryokan there is one we have used for years. The grace and charm of Kyoto are in evidence in every detail and the food is wonderful. After a Kyoto ramen lunch, we will visit to the Nijo Castle and Nanzenji Temple in the eastern hills during the afternoon.
The village of Ohara north of Kyoto is a gem nestling quietly in a valley that feels far from the city. We enjoy another 4-hour walk here, this time through the pine and azalea woods, on Konpira-san, stopping at the local shrines and temples along the way.
There is a farewell dinner downtown on our last night. You will enjoy the night in the comfort of a top Kyoto hotel before breakfast and your onward journey.
DAY BY DAY ITINERARY
DAY 1 – THURSDAY OSAKA and MOUNT KOYA WALK
Meet Osaka . Transfer by train to Mount Koya . Lunch. Afternoon guided walk of temples and cemetery to Okunoin, where the founder of Shingon Buddhism, Kobo Daishi, is believed to be in eternal meditation. Dinner and early night.
Overnight temple.
DAY 2 – FRIDAY MOUNT KOYA and YOSHINO
Early morning rise for to join in short sutra reading ceremony before breakfast. All food is temple vegetarian shojin ryori . After breakfast descend cable car for train to Yoshino. Arrive Yoshino. After lunch free time to wander around village and see garden of the ryokan. Dinner at ryokan. Overnight ryokan
DAY 3 – SATURDAY YOSHINO WALK
Walk to up to site of Saigyo's hut, passing Mikumari Jinja Shrine. Yoshino kuzu noodle lunch. Transfer to Kamikitayama. Overnight hotel
DAY 4 – SUNDAY ODAIGAHARA PLATEAU WALK
Drive up to Odaigahara Plateau. 4-hour walk of West Odai and see visitor centre. Picnic if weather permits. Transfer to Asuka in the afternoon. Western-style dinner at local restaurant. Overnight B&B
DAY 5 – MONDAY ASUKA WALK
Leisurely tour, on foot or by rented bicycles, of sites in and around village of Asuka , including the Takamatsuzuka tumulus, Ishibutai tomb, and Asukadera. Lunch of soba buckwheat noodles at craft centre where there will be a hands-on indigo fabric dyeing session. Dinner at local restaurant. Overnight B&B
DAY 6 – TUESDAY YAMANOBE NO MICHI WALK and NARA
After breakfast, transfer to start of the Yamanobe no Michi trail at Miwa Jinja Shrine. 4-hour hike to Isonokami Jingu Shrine near Tenri. Train into Nara . Overnight city centre hotel
DAY 7 – WEDNESDAY NARA SIGHTSEEING
Morning and early afternoon sightseeing in and around Nara Park , including Todai Temple . Later afternoon free time. Dinner at Japanese restaurant.
DAY 8 – THURSDAY KYOTO SIGHTSEEING
Transfer by train from Nara to Kyoto . ramen noodle lunch followed by visits to Nijo Castle and Nanzenji Zen Temple . Dinner at ryokan. Overnight ryokan
DAY 9 – FRIDAY KYOTO and OHARA KONPIRA-SAN WALK
Bus to Ohara and 4-hour walk of Konpira-san. O-bento picnic lunch box or noodles depending on weather. pm Return to Kyoto and check-in to hotel. Evening farewell dinner downtown and enjoy Gion area.
DAY 10 – KYOTO SATURDAY
Tour ends after breakfast. Onward travel - hotel is conveniently located for access to Kyoto station.
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