INTRODUCTION
Mount Koya · Ryujin Onsen · Nakaheji Pilgrimage Route to the Three Great Kumano Shrines · Yoshino · Asuka · Nara · Kyoto
Although less dramatic than the Japan Alps, the forested mountains of the Kii Peninsula, south of Nara, have for centuries been regarded as sacred.
Your first night in Japan is at an elegant temple situated on Mount Koya , the home of Shingon (Pure Word) Buddhism. The pilgrimage routes to the three great Kumano Shrines – Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Hayatama Taisha, were popularised during and after the Heian Period (794-1185), when the imperial family and nobility began to seek salvation in sangaku shinko (a belief in the supernatural power of mountains), rather than through common religious practices. Emperor Gotoba (1180-1239) made no less than thirty pilgrimages to Kumano, recording his thoughts and feelings in the Kumano poems. These precious documents are now in the Yomei Storehouse archives in Kyoto .
Hot springs are abundant, and some of the oldest onsen in Japan are located in the Kii Peninsula . You will follow the southernmost part of the old Nakaheji pilgrimage route for about 65 kilometres staying at family run inns and temples along the way. The path is often paved with flagstone steps and leads through forests of Japanese cedar. Walking in the quiet solitude it is easy to imagine the days, centuries ago, when nobles followed these paths through the mountains. The pilgrimage route ends at Nachi where your accommodation overlooks the highest waterfall in Japan .
After a week of walking you will travel out of the mountains, via the quiet mountaintop village of Yoshino , to the ancient capitals of Asuka and Nara . You will explore the sites here and walk through gentle countryside along the Yamanobe-no-michi (literally the ‘path beside the mountains'). In Kyoto you will experience a more cosmopolitan side of Japan . Shorter strolls will take us to Japanese gardens and other important historical cultural sites. You will visit the ultramodern Miho Museum in Shigaraki, and there will be free time for shopping in Kyoto and enjoying the bright city lights.
DAY BY DAY ITINERARY
DAY 1 – SUNDAY MEET OSAKA . TRANSFER TO MOUNT KOYA
Meet in Osaka . From Osaka you will travel by train to Mount Koya , location of the head monastery of the esoteric Shingon school of Buddhism . We will ascend Mount Koya itself using the cable car. Dinner will be shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian food). Overnight at Buddhist Temple .
DAY 2 - MONDAY SIGHTSEEING MOUNT KOYA AND DRIVE TO RYUJIN ONSEN
During the morning you will have a leisurely guided walk to the most interesting sites on Mount Koya , including Okunoin, where Kukai (later named Kobo Daishi) is enshrined. The walk, through tall cypress trees, passes several hundred thousand tombstones, monuments to emperors, shoguns and samurai, landlords and poets.
In the afternoon you will drive south from Mount Koya , along the Koya-Ryujin Skyline, to a sumptuous old ryokan in Ryujin onsen. The Kamigoten ryokan was declared a ‘Tangible cultural property' (similar to a Grade 1 listed building) in 1999. Dark polished wooden floors, large white cedar baths, and delicious seasonal delicacies will be served for dinner. Overnight ryokan.
DAY 3 –TUESDAY WALK TO
CHIKATSUYU
(13 miles walking: approximately 8 hours)
A short drive to the start of the 4-day walk along the old Nakaheji pilgrimage path to Kumano. From the start at Takejiri Oji, the path climbs steeply up to the ridge-top village of Takahara . The Nakaheji has been established as one of Japan 's National Historic Roads. The paths are clearly defined, and flagstones have been laid in some places to make the climbs easier. Although rarely seen these days, there are small bears in the Kumano mountains and, more commonly, deer and wild boar. Wayside shrines encourage regular rest stops. Massive cedar trees around the small shrine at Nonaka no Ipponsugi marks the end of the first day of the walk. The night is spent in a ryokan in Yunomine Overnight ryokan.
DAY 4 – WEDNESDAY WALK TO GRAND KUMANO SHRINE AT HONGU (13 miles: 8 hours)
The path continues through the mountains to Yunomine, one of the oldest natural hot spring onsen villages in Japan . There is an increasing sense of solitude and purpose as you progress towards the three great shrines of Kumano, passing small jizo statues on the way. Nobles would rest at points called oji, to refresh themselves and compose poems. Their poetry is engraved on stone monuments sited along the path. The walk ends at the very important Grand Kumano Shrine in Hongu. At the heart of these sacred mountains, Kumano was said to be the entrance to the land of Yomi , the ‘other world' which spirits travelled to in Japanese mythology. The classic style of architecture of the Kumano Hongu Shrine blends perfectly with the surrounding mountains and forests. The shrine uses a mythological three-legged raven symbol, representing the Hongu, Nachi, and Hayatama shrines – the same motif as the one used by the Japan Football Association.
You will stay at a comfortable ryokan with an outdoor hot tub, fed by local hot springs , in Yunomine. Evening soaks under the stars are recommended for tired limbs, as are morning dips before breakfast. Your breakfast eggs might well be boiled in the boiling, sulphurous waters at the spring in the centre of the village. Overnight ryokan.
DAY 5 - THURSDAY WALK TO KOGUCHI (9 miles: 6 hours)
Today there is a long, gentle climb over the Kogumotori Pass (470m) to Koguchi. In the evening we will visit and have dinner at the home of a shugendo priest, a gyoja , in the village of Koyama .
Overnight at accommodation in hot spring town.
DAY 6 – FRIDAY WALK TO GRAND SHRINE AT NACHI (10 miles: 6 hours)
The final 10 miles of your walk along the Nakaheji footpath is a long morning climb over the Ogumotori Echizen Pass (870m), followed by a descent to the Nachi Shrine. The shrine and temple complex overlooks the Nachi-no-taki waterfall, the highest in Japan (133 meters). You will stay at the Sonshoin temple, an appropriate resting place after your long walk. The lodging has a pretty Japanese garden, and a beautiful view of the waterfall and surrounding forest. If you can get up at 5.30 a.m. you can even take part in morning meditation! Overnight Buddhist temple
DAY 7 - SATURDAY DRIVE TO YOSHINO
This morning, after a look at Nachi Falls , we will drive via Kumano City , through the Omine Mountains to the ridge-top village of Yoshino . The ryokan you will stay in has a lovely garden designed by the great tea master Sen no Rikyu. A relaxing evening in a comfortable inn. Overnight ryokan
DAY 8 - SUNDAY EXPLORE YOSHINO & TRANSFER TO ASUKA
We will explore Yoshino in the morning, seeing the Mikumari Shrine and Kinpusenji Temple (main temple of the Shugendo sect of mountain monks), before enjoying a kuzu noodle lunch. In the afternoon we travel on to the village of Asuka . Overnight minshuku
DAY 9 – MONDAY ASUKA
Asuka, on the southern fringe of the Nara Plain, was the first capital of a unified state known as Yamato. Japan 's modest equivalent of Stonehenge is in Asuka, which also has a number of huge imperial tumuli or burial mounds. The oldest Buddhist statue is found in Asuka, a village which has strict planning permissions and so retains the sort of rural charm lost in many parts of Japan .
You will visit a craft centre, the Asuka Ai zome Senshokukan, where there is the opportunity to try your hand at dyeing - a souvenir to take home perhaps? This is the home of an ex-NHK journalist who has a great collection of indigo-dyed aizome fabrics, and clay bells (over 10,000!). Lunch will be delicious handmade buckwheat noodles. In the afternoon you will explore the Asuka area on a gentle guided cycle tour. Overnight minshuku
DAY 10 – TUESDAY WALK ALONG THE YAMANOBE NO MICHI PATH
Today you will walk along a route known, literally, as the ‘path besides the mountains', from Miwa Shrine to Tenri. There is the occasional slope, but the terrain is fairly flat, in spite of the proximity of hills, and takes us through rural farming countryside . We stop to enjoy some chilled Miwa noodles on the way. Overnight city centre hotel
DAY 11 – WEDNESDAY NARA SIGHTSEEING
Today you will have a guided walk around Nara Park . Many of Japan 's greatest cultural treasures are concentrated in and around Nara . Indeed, the city boasts eight UNESCO World Heritage sites. The Todaiji temple, Nigastu-do and Sangatsu-do halls, Kasuga shrine, Shinyakushi-ji temple, Kofuku-ji temple, Shosoin treasure house, Isuien garden, as well as the Nara National Museum and the Nara City Museum of Photography are all in or near Nara Park . The parkland is also home to a thousand or more free-roaming deer.
Todaiji's Daibutsu-den is the largest wooden building in the world, and houses a 16- metre tall bronze image of the cosmic Dainichi buddha, containing 437 tonnes of bronze and 130kg of gold. Prior to being rebuilt three hundred years ago, the awesome structure was even bigger than it is today.
There will be free time to relax and look around Nara on your own in the afternoon. Overnight city centre hotel
DAY 12 – THURSDAY KYOTO
After a noodle lunch we will visit Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavilion, before strolling down Philosopher's Walk towards the Nanzenji temple.
In the evening, we will be served dinner in our ryokan by gracious staff dressed in traditional kimono.
Overnight ryokan.
DAY 13 – FRIDAY KYOTO & MIHO MUSEUM in SHIGARAKI
In the morning you will visit the ultra-modern Miho Museum in Shigaraki. Designed by I.M.Pei, the museum has been sculptured into the mountains, giving you a sense that you have entered a serene world where time stands still. The museum is almost as spectacular as the Guggenheim in Bilbao . In the afternoon we return to Kyoto when there will be some time to look around the shops. Dinner at ryokan. Overnight ryokan
DAY 14 – SATURDAY KYOTO
Kyoto is so special it would take years to see a fraction of its wonders. In the morning we will visit the amazing old merchant house Nijo Jinya. After lunch you will visit the grand Nijo Castle . There will be some more time to shop. Nishikikoji market is a great place to get an idea of the incredible diversity of food in Japan , and to see related businesses, such as the Aritsugu knife shop where they sell a wide range of top quality Japanese kitchen knives and other utensils. Shopping culture in Japan has, like everything else they do, been taken to extraordinary heights.
In the early evening we will have a guided tour of the Gion area – one of the traditional geisha quarters. A lively night spot.
Farewell dinner and the traditional haiku poetry! Overnight ryokan.
DAY 15 – SUNDAY TOUR ENDS
Breakfast and transfer to Kansai airport or other destinations.
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